Hammer and Tongs

Three Stoned Tiffany Ring



I have started on a ring that while it didn't seem complex at the outset it is turning into a real trial of nerves - but then my instructor did say he was going to give me a project that would challenge me a bit.


The three settings are two different sizes, and cone shaped. 
The centre setting is  5.5mm across and 4mm deep, this one wasn't too difficult to construct - there was worse to come, it is made from a flat strip of silver that is bent round to form a tube and soldered, I then hammered it in a coning tool, cut it open, re-sized, soldered and hammered again in the coning tool until happy with the size and overall appearance, I'm sure someone out there may have a better / easier method of doing this and I would be glad to hear of it.

Coning tool

The two side settings proved to be a job of epic proportions; to start I tried to make the settings from flat strip the same way as I did the large setting but at 3mm across and 3mm high my nerves became very exposed. 


I spoke to my instructor about this, the settings not the nerves  - in case you were wandering -  and he suggested an alternative method; Roll out some square strip 3.2mm square, then draw this down through a round draw plate until it is 3mm round wire - strong arms required here and a bit of weight behind it when you pull.
Then mark off 3mm depth and cut on the line to 1 and 1/2 half saw blade depth - DO NOT SAW deeper it seems to break off.

Square Wire

3mm Round Wire

Using a flat file I start filing away material to form a cone( from here on please excuse the drawings they are done in paint)  then I drilled down the centre of the wire with a 1 mm drill bit, reamed it out with a 1mm and a 1.5 mm round burr and the finished it off with a cone shaped burr.

Filed setting

Then I measured up 1mm markings down the side and and drilled a 0.7 mm hole in the side, then cut out a 1mm slot from the centre leaving a 2mm post to support the top of the setting.

Two side settings

Next I will do a similar cut on the larger setting bit this time leaving a post on either side for the smaller settings to sit up against.

All three settings

Settings with their stones

 have started making the body of the ring, - again I have made up a strip of square wire, bent it round or as round as can be made then soldered closed at the join and then hammered properly round on a ring mandrel. I have started hammering the bottom of the ring flat to sit against the finger and the top is hammered flat in the vertical (hammered up shank) and this will be spit to receive and hold the setting.

Start of the ring

To be continued.........